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Author Topic: beer soap  (Read 6815 times)
falldowngobump
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« Reply #15 on: June 28, 2011, 04:08:43 AM »

Beer soap is one of my favorites to use.  The bubble is great.  Just use your favorite soap recipe and sub the flat  (frozen) beer as the liquid.  It does change the feel of the soap when it's cured---Good luck!
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StampinFairy
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« Reply #16 on: June 28, 2011, 01:56:40 PM »

are there any documented benefits to using beer over water in the soap recipe?  I've wanted to try this but my hubby said the sugar would kill the whole thing.  "Besides, what's the benefit to the skin?" he'd say.  As if the fun of using beer wasn't a benefit enough??
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tricia
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« Reply #17 on: June 28, 2011, 10:06:49 PM »

i used my husband's homemade stout beer to make my third batch of soap, there's no EO, no FO, just beer and i added ground coffee and powdered black tea in the soap, very interesting, definitely had lots of fun making it and it's my husband's homemade beer which makes it special  Grin
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Patricia
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« Reply #18 on: June 29, 2011, 04:24:56 AM »

Tricia,
That's awesome.  My husband hasn't brewed beer yet (probably because I can't drink it -allergic) just wine, mead, and hard cider.  There is a batch of mead that he made that is just way too dry to drink.  I might consider making a batch of soap with that.
And since it was a Blackberry Honey Mead (made with a Champagne yeast -hence the super dryness) it might make a nice soap.
thanks for that idea.
But is there any benefit (other than the fun of it) to using beer and such in soap?
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tricia
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« Reply #19 on: June 29, 2011, 12:41:14 PM »

hi stampinfaries,
the homemade wine sounds very good, and it will make a good soap, Im not sure about what benefits of the beer and wine but I saw many people comments that the beer will give an extra fluffy to the soap, my husband is using my beer soap as a facial bar, so far he likes it, lol..... Grin
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Patricia
BizzyBeesSoap
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« Reply #20 on: June 29, 2011, 04:31:01 PM »

I just read that the hops in beer will help you relax, the lye does not kill that property.  I do know that beer is great for you hair. 

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stephan1473
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« Reply #21 on: June 29, 2011, 10:35:35 PM »

Hi,

I've just made my first batch with guinnes beer. I left the beer out to flatten then froze it. When I added lye to the frozen beer.... no spectacular reaction, no heat.the temp was constant about 17-18C, it reached in the end 21C. No bad smell as I read in other posts. I use a stick blender and usually the trace is quick and thick but this time it took longer time to trace and it was quite runny! Poured it in moulds, I've got individual plastic moulds. After almost 24h I checked the moulds.. the soap was hard and ready to be unmould, no problem with that! but very very oily!!!!
the oil was lying on top of the soap.When I unmoulded.... a lot of oil at the bottom of the mould.... Haven't experienced that so far....
What can it be? Why so much oil?
Otherwise... the colour is very nice and nice guinness beer smell in the soap. I am very pleased with it apart from this oil which I dont know where it comes from and why!
Anyone any ideas about that?
Thank you!
Stephan
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stephan1473
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« Reply #22 on: June 29, 2011, 10:41:12 PM »

forgot to mention..... my recipe for that guinness beer soap....
castor oil 10%
coconut oil 30%
olive oil 50%
sunflower oil 10%
no EO, no FO
5% lye discount
38% water
The soap got hard but very oily after 24h.... Have I done anything wrong?
Stephan
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ceebee2001
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« Reply #23 on: June 30, 2011, 07:49:34 AM »

have no clue, I've never had that problem.  I have only made 2 batches of beer soap as CP the rest have been done in the crock pot.
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stephan1473
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« Reply #24 on: June 30, 2011, 01:23:17 PM »

Hi Ceebee2001,
Do you use frozenbeer when adding lye? I haven't got any rise in the temperature when adding lye.I thought it would be like with milk.... I used frozen guinness beer and the temp hardly went to 18C.
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tricia
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« Reply #25 on: June 30, 2011, 05:28:38 PM »

hi Stephan,
I think by looking at your recipe, I am thinking u might need some palm kernel oil or palm oil to make the soap harder, and maybe add some kind of butter in the recipe. I didn't frozen the beer I just put the beer in the fridge overnight to make it flat and just process it like normal, temperature same as other soap making, nothing different, I only make beer soap once and it's successful, so I am just thinking maybe u have wait a little longer before cutting it cause the bar is too soft due to too much liquid oil? I hope I'm right, maybe Steve can really help u Grin
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Patricia
ceebee2001
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« Reply #26 on: June 30, 2011, 07:50:33 PM »

I do not freeze  my beer anymore, I just store it in the fridge after letting it go flat.
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stephan1473
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« Reply #27 on: June 30, 2011, 10:29:32 PM »

Ive just made a new batch  with guinness beer but this time I added 10% cocoa butter and I haven't frozen the beer. it was straight from the fridge. Looking forward to seeing how it's going on. Would that be a problem that it is a small batch? I use 230gr oils altogether,

Stephan
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miryhn
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« Reply #28 on: July 01, 2011, 07:26:03 PM »

There are a few reasons your oils can separate.

False trace. This happens when you're soaping at cool temps or in an overly ventilated or cold room and the soap seems to trace right away but then liquifies again if you keep stirring. Given that you stick blended it for a while, this seems like a remote possibility.

Low saturated to unsaturated oil ratio. While soaping at low ratios is entirely possible, as with Castile soap, these soaps are much more difficult to make and require a ton of stirring. In my own recipes, I like to shoot for a 40/60 sat/unsat ratio. Your recipe works out to 34/66, so that's not too bad.

Problematic EOs or FOs. Not the problem here.

Soaping at too cool temps. IMO, this is probably the issue... barring any miscalculations or incorrect measuring. I treat my beer soaps the same as my usual H2O soaps in that I don't freeze the liquids, all ingredients are at room temp, and I pour into a wooden log mold. The way you treated your recipe is the way I would treat my 100% milk soaps. Freezing the liquid and then pouring into individual plastic molds (these molds have no built-in insulation like wooden molds do) may have kept the soap solution from getting to gel phase and hindered the saponification process. Did you put your soap to bed wrapped in towels or blankets? If not, they would have had zero insulation.

Too much lye. Nuff said.

As for the benefits of beer soap, I would say the best one is the rich, creamy lather. I always use beer in my shampoo bars for both the lather and the shine qualities that beer gives you. I can't say for certain that the lye process doesn't kill the shine-enhancing properties, but my hair is pretty darn shiny!  Cheesy

As for what kind of beer to use, I always use the cheap, gross stuff that I would never drink and often find left at my house after a party, lol. It's a great alternative to throwing it out. I've never really noticed enough of a difference between brands in the quality of the soap to really worry about this (all beers seem to make nice lathery soap), but there can be differences in the color and the heavier bodied beers do seem to make a richer lather.

Although, no one has ever left a Natty at my house, so I can't vouch for all the cheap, gross beers!  Wink
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Dave C
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« Reply #29 on: July 01, 2011, 08:05:53 PM »

Tricia,
What is your ratio of coffee/tea per pound of soap?  Sounds great, definitely would like to try this.  Never tried no EO/FO except in my first batches.  Have you done this in other than beer soap?  I would like to try it in both my regular recipe and a beer recipe, a first in both cases.  Sounds great!
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